​Help! My fat healthy puppy at the breeders now has diarrhea at my home.

As a Breeder of World Champion bred Doberman Pinscher Puppies we are ever watchful of our puppies stools, always on the lookout for a change in consistency or color and we recommend you as a new Doberman Pinscher owner do the same throughout your Dobermans' life as well.

If your puppy has a loose stool, greasy sandy or foamy puddle, slimy or mucous'y stool with flecks of blood or occasional chronic diarrhea:



​Common Causes:
Has your new Doberman recently been shipped?
Is there more Stress than normal (new home, children, crate training etc.)?
Have you recently changed your puppies food?
Does your puppy eat non edible items outside?
Has your puppy recently been exposed to new dogs or cats?
Have you given your puppy too many rich treats?
Do you give your puppy chlorinated or fluoridated city water?
Has your new puppy drank our of mud puddles, ponds or rivers?

What to do first:  
First ~ consult with your new puppies veterinarian FIRST.
Second ~ Call YOUR Doberman puppies breeder!
Try giving your puppy bottled water for a few days, then if this step resolved the issue within a few days then you may slowly start adding back city water. (pure water is always best though)
Try giving your puppy boiled chicken and brown rice for a few days.
You can also mix in a tablespoon of canned pumpkin with his kibble. (not pie mix!)
If after trying these tips your puppy still has issues, just doesn't feel spunky or has begun vomiting take him and a fresh stool sample to your veterinarian immediately.

Possible causes for Watery or bloody diarrhea:
Worms 
Giardia or Coccidia or Both. 
Parvo or Distemper. (Both diseases are endemic in the USA)

Please remember puppies can be extremely resilient, BUT are also very fragile, if your puppy develops water diarrhea, bloody stools or vomiting, take him to the veterinarian hospital immediately!
A young puppy can die within hours of starting diarrhea and vomiting due to the imbalance of electrolytes.

  N. Safra1, H. Bark1, T. Waner2, I. Aizenberg1, A. Mosenco1, M. Radoshitsky1 and S. Harrus1
1. School of Veterinary Medicine, Hebrew University of Jerusalem., 2. Israel Institute for Biological Research, Ness Ziona. The effect of two different vaccination protocols on the development of hypertrophic osteodystrophy (HOD) and immunization in a litter of 10 Weimaraner puppies was investigated. Five puppies (group 1) were vaccinated with a modified live canine parvovirus vaccine and two weeks later with a trivalent vaccine containing modified live canine distemper virus and advenovirus type 2 combined with a Leptospira bacterin. This vaccination cycle was repeated twice, at two week intervals.
Group 2 was vaccinated with 3 consecutive multivalent vaccines containing modified live canine distemper virus, canine parvovirus, parainfluenza and adenovirus type 2 combined with a Leptospira bacterin at 4 week intervals. All puppies were first vaccinated at the age of 8 weeks. Three dogs in group 1 developed HOD, while all five dogs in group 2 developed HOD during the study period. Dogs in group 1 developed higher antibody titers to canine distemper virus and parvovirus compared to the dogs in group 2.
The results of this study futher strengthens the previously reported observation of a direct link between vaccination and clinical HOD in Weimaraners, and indicate that the 2 different vaccination protocols affected the pattern of appearance of HOD and immunization in the Weimaraner puppies.

Craniomandibular osteopathy (CMO) is an idiopathic, non-neoplastic, proliferative disease of the cranial bones in the dog. The disease has commonly been referred to as Westie disease because of the overrepresentation of West Highland white terriers, or as lion jaw because of the exuberant new bone formation that typically affects the mandibles.1 Although identified primarily in terrier breeds, CMO has been reported in other breeds.2,3 It is typically selflimiting and is known to affect skull bones, including the occipital bones, tympanic bullae, mandibles, and temporomandibular joints. Although CMO is typically a bilateral disease, asymmetric lesions are often seen.4,5 The age of onset is typically between 3 to 8 months; however, clinical signs tend to resolve by 1 year of age.3 There is no known sex predilection. The cause is unknown; however, an autosomal recessive inheritance is suspected,1 and other causes such as bacterial and viral infections have been implicated.1

Clinical Signs Patients are often presented with unilateral or bilateral mandibular swelling, trismus, hypersalivation, and vocalization indicative of pain. Clinical signs may be misattributed to pain from cervical disease and may lead to reduced dietary intake because of impaired prehension, dysmastication, and subsequent dysphagia.3,6

Diagnosis Diagnosis is based on signalment, history, clinical signs, and radiographic findings. Although biopsy and histopathology can help confirm diagnosis, they are typically not necessary, as radiographic findings are often pathognomonic (Figure 1). However, although standard radiographs can confirm diagnosis, CT may be helpful in assessing if the temporomandibular joints are affected. There are no specific pathologic signs. Often, serum alkaline phosphatase is elevated and hyperphosphatemia is present3; however, because CMO is typically diagnosed in young and adolescent dogs, these elevations are likely consistent with skeletal immaturity.3

Other differential diagnoses can include osteomyelitis and neoplasia, especially if lesions are unilateral. CMO can occur independently of or in conjunction with other developmental orthopedic diseases of the axial and appendicular skeleton.4 Treatment & Prognosis Appropriate pain management is critical. Most patients appear to respond well to NSAID therapy, but protracted treatment may be necessary; however, some clinicians prefer to treat with anti-inflammatory doses of glucocorticoids.6 Coadministration of NSAIDs and glucocorticoids must be avoided. Supportive care can include a gruel or softened diet, although hand-feeding may be required. Prognosis typically depends on the bones affected and temporomandibular joint(s) involvement. In addition, the patient’s ability to open and close the mouth, prehend food, and sustain themselves throughout supportive care can affect prognosis. For instances in which there is limited range of motion because of temporomandibular joint(s) involvement, prognosis for survival is dependent on the patient’s ability to maintain appropriate dietary intake.3 In such cases, although temporomandibular joint arthroplasty and excision have been recommended, deleterious effects following surgical intervention have been reported; thus, the majority of cases can be treated medically. Most patients respond to medical management and supportive care.7

References 1. Shelton GD. From dog to man: the broad spectrum of inflammatory myopathies. Neuromuscul Disord. 2007;17(9-10):663-670. 2. Miller WH, Griffin CE, Campbell KL. Familial canine dermatomyositis. In: Miller WH, Griffin CE, Campbell KL, eds. Muller and Kirk’s Small Animal Dermatology. 7th ed. St. Louis, MO: Elsevier Mosby; 2013:585-587. 3. Morris DO. Ischemic dermatopathies. Vet Clin North Am Small Anim Pract. 2013;43(1):99-111. 4. Marsella R, Nicklin CF, Munson JW, Roberts SM. Pharmacokinetics of pentoxifylline in dogs after oral and intravenous administration. Am J Vet Res. 2000;61(6):631-637. 5. Watson AJ, Adams WM, Thomas CB. Craniomandibular osteopathy in dogs. Compend Contin Educ. 1995;17:911-922. 6. Shorenstein B, Schwartz P, Kross PH. What is your diagnosis? Craniomandibular osteopathy. J Am Vet Med Assoc. 2014;245(5):491-492. doi: 10.2460/javma.245.5.491. 7. Pettitt R, Fox R, Comerford EJ, Newitt A. Bilateral angular carpal deformity in a dog with craniomandibular osteopathy. Vet Comp Orthop Traumatol. 2012;25(2):149-154. doi: 10.3415/VCOT-11-02-0022.

If your dog is eating a nutritionally complete and balanced diet, he’ll never go hungry in between meals. Still, everyone likes to snack sometimes, and these fruits and veggies are safe to share — certainly healthier than those pre-packaged chicken jerky strips. Just be sure, as with any treat, to keep the total calories to less than 10% of your dog’s daily diet! 
Apples An apple a day keeps the doctor and the vet away. Packed with fiber and vitamins A and C, an occasional apple is a great way to add extra nutrients to your dog’s diet. In addition, their low protein and fat content makes them the perfect snack for senior dogs. Always remove the seeds and core before offering them up to your pup, as apple seeds contain cyanide and can have poisonous effects on your dog if consumed regularly over time.
Bananas Bananas are a great low-calorie treat for dogs. They are loaded with potassium, vitamins, fiber, and copper which all lead to a healthier heart, better digestion, and more energy. Bananas are also low in cholesterol and sodium. Keep in mind that they are high in sugar, so serve in moderation — there’s nothing crazier than a puppy on a sugar high.
Blueberries A superfood for humans and dogs alike, blueberries are rich in antioxidants, fiber, and phytochemicals, which can prevent and fight disease. Share the health next time you’re whipping up a smoothie and toss a few berries into your dog’s bowl. Just beware of blue puppy kisses.
Cantaloupe Prosciutto and melon should be saved for your human guests, but a slice of cantaloupe contains a heaping dose of dog-friendly nutrients. Filled with beta-carotene, fiber, folate, niacin, potassium, and vitamins A, B-6, and C, this sweet melon is a nutritional powerhouse for your pup. Don’t forget to remove the seeds and rind, as they can both cause stomach and digestive issues.
Carrots Not brushing your dog’s teeth every night? We won’t judge, but we will pass the carrots. The texture of carrots actually helps remove plaque and other buildup from the surface of teeth. Carrots are rich in fiber, beta-carotene, and vitamin A and are also low in calories, which is a win-win.
Celery Another great diet-friendly snack, celery is high in vitamins and low in calories. With vitamins A, B, and C, this veggie will boost your dog’s immune system, energy levels, and overall health. Most importantly, a dog gnawing at a stringy celery stick is the cutest thing you’ll see all year.
Cucumbers Cucumbers are nearly completely devoid of fats and oils, making them a strong choice for overweight dog looking to shed a few pounds. Loaded with potassium, copper, magnesium, biotin, and vitamins K, C, and B-1, cucumbers are heavy in nutrition and light in calories. Your pooch will be strutting across the dog park with pride in no time.
Green Beans A crunchy source of iron, calcium, fiber, folic acid, niacin, potassium, beta-carotene, and vitamins A, C, and K, green beans are another excellent choice for overweight dogs. Only feed fresh or canned varieties without any added salt.
Pears A frequently overlooked option for dogs, pears are not to be forgotten. These autumnal fruits contain fiber, and vitamins C and K, ensuring better digestion and a stronger immune system. Ditch the core at the door.
Pumpkin  If you’re planning to stuff your pup into a hot dog Halloween costume this year, a little pumpkin is a well-deserved treat. Pumpkin is deliciously rich in carotenoids, beta-carotene, alpha-carotene, fiber, zinc, iron, potassium, and vitamin A and is also a quick antidote for an upset stomach. Make sure to never serve raw (cooked or canned will do) and always remove stems, skins, and seeds, because poison.
Red Peppers Packed with vitamins, slices of raw red peppers are a sweet treat as long as you remove the stems and seeds. Save the hummus for your own dipping; the garlic makes it a dangerous food for your dog.
Strawberries Strawberry fields forever/in moderation. Like bananas, strawberries are high in sugar and need to be given in small portions, but they’re a great source of fiber and vitamin C.
Sweet Potatoes A word of warning: raw potatoes are very rough on your dog’s digestive system, and will make the poop scooping uncomfortable for everyone involved the next day. Once cooked, however, sweet potatoes are a great snack — they’re high in beta-carotene and contain fiber and vitamins B-6 and C.
Watermelon Cut an extra (seed-free) slice next time you take a family trip to the beach! Like apples, watermelon seeds can cause intestinal blockage and digestion problems. Keep the rind out of reach too; it can also lead to gastrointestinal upset. Watermelon is 92% water, making it a tasty way to keep your dog hydrated on a hot summer afternoon. Packed with potassium and vitamins A, B-6, and C, it will have your pup chasing waves all day.
Does your dog have a favorite fruit or veggie? Let us know! Take a picture of your dog snacking on a healthy treat and tag us on Instagram or Facebook. The fresh food revolution awaits.
​Thank you to the Farmers Dog.

10 Safety Tips For Kids Living With Dogs
A kid and their dog can be a great relationship. But first you have to introduce them and that can come with some safety problems. Here are 10 tips to help your baby live safely with your dog.
1. When The Dog Is On The Floor, Don’t Put The Baby On The FloorIf your dog is outside getting some fresh air, that’s a great opportunity for your baby to crawl around on the floor but when your dog is inside, this can be dangerous. You never know when a frightened or startled dog or baby could react in a way that might cause harm to the other.
2. Never Leave Your Dog And Your Children Together UnattendedThis is never a good idea. We parents get busy with life, phone, the computer and stop paying attention to what our children and pets are doing. A simple hug from a child can be taken as an act of aggression by a dog. It’s best to always keep your kids within arms reach, even if there’s not a dog around.
3. Don’t Let Your Baby Crawl Into Another Room Where You Can’t See ThemIf your baby starts crawling, you need to follow. Don’t let your child or baby wander around the into rooms where you can’t see them. Use child safety gates and locks to keep young children contained and away from your pets or other hazards and dangers.
4. Don’t Allow Your Children To Approach Your Dog While He Or She Is SleepingDogs can be startled in their sleep just like humans. Give your dog a safe and comfortable place to sleep where children can’t startle or disturb them.
5. Never Let A Child Hit, Throw Toys At, Sit On, Or Shout At Your DogThis is never okay. Children need to be taught from birth that animals are to be treated with kindness and respect. It’s not okay to sit on a dog. This is when things can go very bad. Your kid could get bit your dog’s back could be injured. It’s not a funny photo opportunity. It’s dangerous.
6. Never Let Your Kids Hug OR KISS A DogMaybe your dog is use to hugs but to most dogs a hug is a sign of aggression and many dogs will react accordingly. Teach your children that they must always ask permission to touch or talk to a dog and they should never, under any circumstance hug a dog. This is how a lot of children end up getting bit.
7. Teach Your Kids Never To Take Anything Out Of Your Dog’s MouthWhether it’s a treat or a toy, children should learn that they should never try to take anything away from a dog. If a dog takes their toy, they should find the nearest adult, report the situation and let the adult handle it.
8. Never Let Your Pets And Children Lay In The Same BedYou might enjoy cuddling with your dog and your new baby but this exact scenarios has led to death. It sounds like a lot of fun, but it’s really just not safe.
9. Don’t Give Your Dogs More Or Less Attention When Your Baby Is BornChildren are a lot of work but having a child doesn’t mean that your dog should suffer lack of affection. Be sure to treat your dog the same as you always treated him or her before your precious baby was born.
10. Don’t Run AND SCREAM
When kids run, dogs love to chase. Teach your kids that being around a dog is like being around a swimming pool. It’s safer to walk. Hopefully an adult is nearby to stop any playtime that becomes too rough for your child or your dog.
This is not a one way street, if you see your dog exhibiting a behavior that is not okay around children you need to teach them that this is not okay. You may need to work with a trainer or put your dog in a bedroom and close the door when children are playing. It’s always better to be safe than sorry.
SRC: dogtime.com/how-to/pet-safety/39999-10-safety-tips-children-live-dogs
“You’ll see how much we know, and you’ll know how much we care.”

We make friends there, we sip our morning coffee there, we commiserate and relate there. So, it stands to reason that each dog park, in each neighborhood of Gresham is, in fact, the best dog park in Gresham.But, if you were to consider an adventure to a new dog park, these would all be great places to start.

Springwater Corridor:
Starting in Portland and winding through Milwaukee, Gresham, and Boring, this park offers paved walkways, vista points, natural areas, and a considerable off-leash area.

Main City Park:
Visit for the dog park, stay for the Tsuru Islands Japanese Garden. Bonus; after you run your dog, treat yourself to a frozen yogurt at Frenzi, and maybe let your pup lick the spoon when you’re done while enjoying their open, outdoor patio.

Thom Park:
Sunsets are surprisingly gorgeous from Oxbow, and it’s a great place to let your water dogs splash and play after a rigorous hike.

Red Sunset Park:
14 acres of lush city park complemented by a tranquil lake where you and your dog can either lounge peacefully or splash around like summertime fools.

​  Aconitum napellus. Symptoms such as fever and sneezing come on rapidly, the mouth is dry despite drinking a lot of water, the animal seems anxious—pacing or clingy.
     Ferrum phosphoricum. Low-grade fever with few other indications. May have "drippy" nose, hacking cough with some mucus production.
Full-blown Kennel Cough
There are a number of remedies that can be very useful at this stage.
     Drosera rotundifolia. Spasmodic or paroxysmal coughing spells, cough sounds "deep," worse when lying down. There may be hoarseness and/or laryngitis, and the throat is very sensitive.
     Bryonia alba. Dry cough, aggravated by motion or being carried, although better sitting sphinx-like. Tremendous thirst. Rapid shallow breathing, panting from pain.
     Spongia tosta. Barking cough that sounds like sawing through wood; cough is better from lukewarm water and warm food.
     Rumex crispus. Dry, spasmodic coughing, cough is worse from cold air, or touching the throat.
     Ipecac. Coughing so violent, it ends in retching or even vomiting.
What if he's getting worse?
Old animals and those with chronic diseases have a much harder time getting through this disease. Kennel Cough is predominantly an upper respiratory disease, so if you hear mucus or rattling in the chest, this means the disease has progressed to the lungs and probably needs professional help. In the meantime, consider the following remedies:
     Antimonium tartaricum. A lot of thick mucus in the lungs; the animal is already very weak from days of coughing and so has trouble raising the mucus.
     Carbo vegetabilis. The dog is cold and exhausted. Cough is much worse at night. Cough in the morning brings up greenish mucus.
     Phosphorus. When the cough has gone down to the chest, and the mucus is blood-tinged.
Nursing care
Whenever one of your animals gets sick, give them the same consideration and care you would give any other member of the family. Give them plenty of fresh water and nutritious food. If possible, experiment with temperature preferences (anything from ice cubes in the water, to lukewarm water). Quarantine them from other dogs (walks, playgroups, etc). Wash bedding regularly, clean surfaces and toys they play with. If they exhibit symptoms such as, "Desires to be alone," "Motion aggravates," or "Touch aggravates," keep young children away from them while they heal. If they are not getting better, get professional help.
You may wish to consult the following useful texts to learn more about the homeopathic care of animals: 
•     Homeopathic Care for Cats and Dogs, Don Hamilton, DVM 
•     The Homoeopathic Treatment of Small Animals, Christopher Day, DVM
•     Dogs: Homeopathic Remedies, George Macleod, MRCVS, DVM
​

Robitussin dm In dogs, the dose given is 0.5 to 1 mg per pound (1 to 2 mg/kg) every 6 to 8 hours. Does as high as 5 mg per pounds may be used twice daily in some situations. Many veterinarians recommend doses of anywhere from 1 ml to 2 ml per 10 pounds of body weight.

Colloidal silver : I used it for ear infection (3 drops from dropper) and kennel cough (5ml). Used it twice a day for 10 days. Worked like a charm & I didn't have to worry about my dog taking pharmaceutical meds with all the side effects.


1. Nosodes — A nosode is a homeopathic remedy derived from a pathological specimen. Nosodes stimulate the natural immune system to react against specific diseases. Kennel cough nosodes are particularly effective.

2. Esberitox — This is a fast-acting Echinacea that I have found very effective in reducing the virulence of bordetella infections.

3. Vitamins C and E — Vitamin C is an antiviral and E provides immune system support.

4. Oregano oil has antiseptic, antifungal, antiviral and antibacterial properties.

5. Astragalus is an herb used in Chinese medicine to enhance the immune system, support lung function and stimulate the regeneration of bronchial cells.

6. Raw garlic and olive leaf are natural antibacterial and antiviral agents.

7. Raw honey will ease the discomfort of coughing, and certain herbs will soothe and naturally suppress a cough, among them licorice root and marshmallow.

8. Essential oils can be used to help a pup with kennel cough breathe easier. Oils of eucalyptus, lavender and tea tree have antibacterial and antiviral properties. Chamomile has a calming effect.

9. Slippery Elm can help soothe sore and irritated throats.
As always, you should talk with your holistic veterinarian about natural remedies and the doses or applications most appropriate for your pet.

Recommended Dosage 
Note: Do not give this medicine to your dog without seeing the vet for a prescription and diagnosis of symptoms.

A typical dosage of doxycycline for dogs is 1.4 – 2.3 mg/lb every 12 hours for 7 to 14 days. Dr. Drewrecommends a higher dosage of 2.3 – 4.5 mg/lb every 12 to 24 hours for 10 or more days. Always follow the recommendation of your vet.

The following chart shows a dosage of 2.3 mg/lb.


 
Other suggested doses specific to different conditions are listed below:


To treat…

Method of administration

Dosage


ErhlichiosisOral2.3 – 4.5 mg/lb every 12 hours for 7 to 10 days
Lyme diseaseOral4.5 mg/lb once daily for 21 to 28 days
Rocky Mountain spotted fever (RMSF)Oral2.3 mg/lb every 12 hours
Salmon poisoningIV4.5 mg/lb twice daily for 10 or more days
Soft tissue infections or UTIsOral or IV2.2 – 5 mg/lb twice daily for 7 to 14 days

 
All injections should be given intravenously (into the bloodstream). Avoid intramuscular or subcutaneous injection.

Gel Formulation

Doxirobe® gel used to treat periodontal disease comes packaged as two syringes which should be mixed together before use. For detailed instructions regarding the use of the gel and the amount to use please visit Zoetis.
 

Example: Your vet could choose to treat a 40 lb dog with 100 mg per dose, which is equal to one 100 mg tablet per dose.

Is It Safe? 
Doxycycline is FDA approved in gel form, and the oral/injectable forms are commonly used to treat dogs. Care must be taken to avoid superinfections of bacteria and fungi which are not susceptible to the drug. Rapid IV injection of the drug in overdose amounts could potentially lead to irregular heartbeat and more serious cardiac effects based on the reactions of other species.

Pregnancy/Nursing: Do not administer this medicine to pregnant or nursing dogs. If use on a pregnant dog is unavoidable, use of the medicine during the last half of pregnancy is possible.


Guidelines For Use 
We recommend the following guidelines when using this medicine to treat your dog:

• Do not use unless prescribed by a vet
• Complete the course of treatment suggested by your vet
• Administer with food

 
Do not administer this medicine orally alongside antacids. Doing so could inhibit the absorption of the medicine. Do not give to dogs who have shown hypersensitivity to this drug or any other tetracycline antibiotics in the past.


Uses 
Doxycycline is an antibiotic, it can treat many different bacterial infections and is usually the drug of choice for treating Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever as well as several other tick-borne diseases.


Side Effects 
Side effects are usually limited to gastric upset. Incidence of vomiting and nausea can be reduced significantly by administering the drug alongside food. In larger amounts weight loss has been noted. In rare cases superinfections may develop following the use of this medicine due to the growth of bacteria and fungi which are resistant to the drug.

Sources

Dr. Drew
Dr. K. Hartmann
Dr. Y. Rikihisa



Cough medicines that contain the cough suppressant dextromethorphan (such as Robitussin-DM, Benylin Expectorant) are available over the counter.
Recommended dosage is one teaspoon per 20 pounds of body weight every 6 hours.


A Natural Product for Kennel CoughIf you prefer to go natural, here is an excellent product that can be used for mild cases of kennel cough in dogs:
Throat Gold – Cough and Throat Soother for Dogs
This all-natural product contains herbs such as mullein, slippery elm, licorice, and more. All these herbs are effective in managing and controlling symptoms of kennel cough.
Simple Kennel Cough Home TreatmentHere are some home remedies that you may want to try if your dog has mild kennel cough:
Hydrogen Peroxide and HoneyThere are quite a few anecdotal reports that claim that hydrogen peroxide and honey can help ease the dry, hacking coughing caused by kennel cough. Add 3 drops of hydrogen peroxide (food grade) to a teaspoon of honey mixed into a large glass of water.
Let your dog drink up the water as soon as possible.
Hydrogen peroxide loses its potency after a few hours in water, so you need to give your dog a fresh new bowl of honey water with hydrogen peroxide every few hours.
Raw HoneyIf you have raw honey or Manuka honey (from New Zealand), try adding one teaspoon or so to a warm cup of water and give it to your dog. Honey can soothe the throat and is antibacterial as well.


Note on Manuka Honey UMFManuka honey comes in different grading levels called UMF (Unique Manuka Factor). This UMF grading system appraises the natural properties found in Manuka Honey, and assures purity and quality. The higher the grade, the better the quality. Get one that has an UMF of at least 15.)
If your dog refuses to drink it, use a medicine dropper and administer a few drops of the solution directly into his mouth every hour or so.
Coconut OilSome dog owners have reported good results in using coconut oil as home treatment for kennel cough. It’s not surprising because coconut oil has anti-bacterial, anti-viral, and anti-fungal properties.
You can give about 1 teaspoon of coconut oil per 10 pounds of body weight in a day. An easy way is to give the oil with your dog’s food. If your dog has never had coconut oil before, start off by giving him a small amount (i.e. less than 1 tsp/10 pounds) to avoid loose stool or diarrhea. Then increase gradually.
If your dog has never had coconut oil before, start off by giving him a small amount to avoid loose stool or diarrhea.
Vitamin C / EchinaceaVitamin C boosts your dog’s immune system so he can recover faster from diseases. Try giving your dog a daily dose of vitamin C. Dosage is 500 mg for bigger dogs and 250 mg for smaller dogs. An herbal tincture of echinacea can also be used to boost immunity.
Moisture / Essential OilsIf your dog has a dry cough, put a humidifier or vaporizer near his bed. This will help fill his airways with soothing moisture. If you have essential oils, adding a few drops to the vaporizer can help ease the cough as well.
Essential oils that can help dogs with kennel cough include lavender, eucalyptus, and niaouli since they all have antibacterial and antiviral properties.
Kennel Cough PreventionThe best way to prevent kennel cough is to strengthen your dog’s immune system.
Add a multiple vitamin supplement to your dog’s diet. In particular, vitamins C and E are essential for boosting the immune system.
The herb echinacea is also well-known for its power in immune boosting.
Here is a natural herbal formula for your dog’s immune system:
Immune SURE
This natural herbal product contains the immune boosting herbs such as Echinacea, elderflower, and goldenseal. It is extremely effective in boosting the immune system and supporting the liver. As a result, the body can become strong enough to fight off infectious diseases such as kennel cough.

Viral Agents and DurationThe length of time the dog is ill has much to do with the type of viral agent that gives the dog kennel cough.

• If your dog is affected with the parainfluenza virus, he'll most likely be sick no more than six days.
• Another common bacteria that leads to kennel cough is bordetella bronchiseptica. Dogs infected with bordetella will usually be sick about 10 days.
• It's not uncommon for dogs to be infected by both the parainfluenza virus and bordetella bacterium and these dogs tend to be sick about 14 to 20 days though the severity of their symptoms will vary over this time period.
• Dogs who develop kennel cough after infection with the distemper virus, Mycoplasma canis or canine flu are at greater risk of developing pneumonia and a prolonged illness.

A Dog's Overall HealthA healthy dog has the best chance of recovering quickly. Dogs with weak immune systems or other health conditions, such as a collapsing trachea, may be susceptible to secondary infections.
Age of the DogA young dog may fight off the infection easier than a more mature dog. However very young puppies are ill or have a weaker immune system can have a harder time with the disease, and unvaccinated puppies are particularly at risk of developing kennel cough.

​

Sadly in today's digital world it's easy to copy photos from foreign and domestic Doberman breeders websites and then post them on your website's header as your own pretend Dobermans.
We have had our content copied and  pasted onto some of these unscrupulous sellers websites and they were even too lazy to remove "Unique Dobermans" from the text!
We've had folks call and tell us our puppy photos were being used to sell puppies on dog selling websites such as puppy find or next day pets etc.
We have even had people steal our dogs photos and paste them onto their personal Doberman websites as their own dogs!
I'm sure you know you can't raise a puppy, remove the dew claws, dock it's tail and then crop it's ears all for $800.00.

​Do your homework before you send money to someone with a pretty website.
Because if you think your getting this cropped and docked for $800.00...

​Progress in Head Type and Size in Doberman Pinscher between 1899-1970THE FIRST THIRTY-FIVE YEARS. The first Standard ever written was by Germans in 1899, which read as follows: “General Appearance: The Doberman Pinscher should be built muscular and powerful, but not clumsy and massy, neither should he be greyhound-like. His appearance must indicate swiftness, power and endurance. Temperament should be lively and ardent.---Height at the shoulder: Males 21.6 to 25.6 inches; Females, 18.9 to 21.6 inches.—Length from occiput to first joint of tail about 27.5 inches.—Tail: cropped, not longer that 5.9 inches.”
“Head: Top of the head must be flat or may be slightly arched, but the forehead must be broad; stretched long, the head must go over into a not too pointy muzzle. Cheeks must be flat but very muscular. A dog of about 19.7 inches, height at the shoulder should measure about 16 inches around the forehead. The length of the head, from occiput to the tip of the nose should be 9.9 to 10 inches. Bite must be very powerful, well developed and closing right. Lips, lying close to the jaw, not drooping. The eye must be dark brown, medium sized, with an intelligent, gentle but energetic expression.---Ears cropped, not too short not too pointy.”
The above gives us a mental picture of the Doberman as presented by the German Standards of 1899, 1920 and 1925 which were in use up until the first American Standard in 1935.
In 1906 the Germans inaugurated comparative head measurements and the Doberman which then a short headed breed began its progress toward a long headed breed. The skull index in 1906 was .58 and was reduced in twenty five years to .42. It was during this period that the Manchester Terrier cross was made which contributed to better head type. The original infusions of Rottweiler and sporting dogs blood had contributed to a heavy head. The Doberman which influenced head type in this era were Leporello vd Nidda; Strumfried v Ilm-Athn: Feodor v Aprath; Leuthold v Hornegg; Waldo vd Strengbach; Sybille v Langen; Modern v Ilm-Athn; Lux vd Blankenburg: Favorit vd Konigstad and Lotte v Roeneckenstein. The goal of head type has been that of Favorit vd Konigstad which had a plainly marked stop; full muzzle, long, wedge-shaped head, correctly set eyes, thin, dry lips.
The first thirty five years after the adoption of the Standard saw really only two major changes. The dog increased about three inches in height—became a high legged animal; and by the lengthening of the head about an inch, became a long headed breed. At this early time statements were made that a domed head and triangular frontal bone were not desired.
THE SECOND THIRTY-FIVE YEARS. The first American Standard of 1935 added much detail and refinement of statement, also a list of faults. Relative statements were “The appearance is that of a dog of good middle size, with a body that is square--. Height at shoulder, males 24 to 27 inches, bitches 23 to 25 inches. Head: Long and dry, resembling a blunt wedge. Top of head flat, slightly depressed to ridge of nose, with nose extending as nearly parallel as possible to the forehead. Cheeks flat. Jaws full and powerful. Well filled under the eyes. Lips lying close to jaw. Eyes: Dark and of medium size, almond-shaped, with vigorous energetic expression.—Teeth strongly developed and snow white.—Ears: well trimmed and carried erect.”
There were no disqualifications at this time, under major faults were Missing Teeth, Undershot or Overshot exceeding one-quarter of an inch (imagine!), Shyness. Visciousness was just a fault. As the head was lengthened it became necessary to be on the alert for these conditions. Notice that we now recognize a taller dog and ask that be square. Along with more leg and longer head naturally came a longer neck with a slight arch.
In 1948 the Standard was revised again. “Height at the withers now 26 to 28 inches in dogs, ideal being 27; 24 to 26 inches in bitches, ideal being 25 ½. – Fearless, loyal and obedient” instead of loyal, obedient, fearless and aggressive. Asks for a head long and dry, resembling a blunt wedge with the words “both frontal and profile view” added. More detail on the head and then “scissors bite” and “22 teeth in the lower jaw and 20 in the upper”. The neck now specified as “upright, well muscled, well arched and length in proportion to body”. The word “upright” seems to have been somewhat misleading, as it brings the vision of “deer neck” or “ewe neck”, which is the result of poor front quarter angulation. For the first time now there are disqualifications: “Shyness, viciousness. Overshot more than 3/16 of an inch. Undershot more than 1/8 of an inch”. This Standard included a scale of points. Basic changes have been an acknowledgement of increase in size, stress of smooth lines and elegance and continued caution as to correct bites.
This era was the heyday of large kennels such as White Gate, Westphalia, Marienland and Ponchartrain which all did considerable importing of stock from Germany and Holland. From the combination of these various lines came a number of great dogs still familiar to us today, such as Uranus, Muck, Kurt vd Reinperle-Reingold, Jesse vd Sonnenhoehe and the later descendants such as Alcor, Dictator and Delegate—all of which have made their mark on today’s stock.
After a passage of twenty years, in 1969 the Standard was again revised and is in effect today. This Standard dropped the scale of points and the listing of faults. Statements remain approximately the same in regard to head, eyes, ears, but under teeth it now asks for “42 correctly placed teeth, 22 in the lower jaw, 20 in the upper” with a disqualification for four or more missing teeth. Viciousnes and shyness are no longer disqualifications, but dogs displaying these qualities are to be dismissed from the ring by the judge. Added details are given in the description of the body and gait and a 45 degree layback of shoulder is asked for.
From the above it becomes evident that fanciers feel that the progress within the last twenty years has been successful in regard to the overall balance, the station, the refinement and elegance of the Doberman, transforming him form a rather heavy appearing dog to one of great style and artistry: that some retrogression has taken place in teeth and mouths; that it is advisable to discourage further over-all size; that emphasis should now be on conformation for utility. The pendulum has swung a little too far in one direction, as usual, and in the search for beauty some factors necessary for working ability have been given minimum consideration.
One authority says that the shape of the head of a Doberman determines the dog’s type. Heads ARE important. The head is the dog’s weapon for use after arriving at the point of contact. The complete structure of the skull, muzzle and teeth enter into the picture for without the proper skull and jaw bones for the fastening of muscles, the catching, holding, lifting and crushing power is inadequate. As we ask for a longer head we must allow for a more prominent occipital bone for muscle anchorage. The depth and width of the attachment of the jaw bone and of the jaw bone itself must be in proportion to the over-all size of the dog. The plates forming the upper jaw bone and the fill under the eyes must be of sufficient width and length to be strong. Heads without sufficient depth from top of skull to bottom of jaw are weak; those which are too deep usually fall off in abrupt angles to pointy jaws. These have small teeth, narrow jaws, which are unserviceable.
Expression in an animal depends upon the shape of the head, the set and expression of the eyes, the carriage of the ears and this expression not only is unique to the breed but enables the knowledgeable beholder to know his character and disposition. Calmness, intelligence, gentleness and alertness show, as well as timidity, uncertainty and sharpness. If the head is too narrow the eyes are set too close together; if too wide, they are too round and face forward. The proper width and length of head with proper fill under the eyes gives the characteristic Doberman expression.
The Standard asks for a dog of medium size with a rear angulation to match a 90 degree front angulation. He must be compact, quick, agile -- characteristics which are not synonymous with great size. Take a look at the Standards of the really large breeds such as Mastiffs, Saints, Komondor,. Watch in the ring such breeds as Great Danes and Pyrenees and some of the diffiuculties of the extremely large breeds become evident. The Doberman Standard today is rightly trying to maintain the present size – to discourage any further advance in height.
We now have a dog “elegant in appearance, of proud carriage, reflecting great nobility and temperament.” This came about through breeders understanding that “Heredity is the transmission to the progeny of a trait which parents in their turn acquired from their ancestral genotype’, and in the application of the truth. They learned, among other things, that inbreeding produced slender, wiry, and larger body structure, thinner skins and finer hair. This progress was implemented by changing style which led to evolutionary improvements as “Inner hereditary traits and tendencies are called forth by external (environmental) influences and become fixed.” The present day Doberman is a dog of gentle curves, one into another, dry head and smooth dry body. At no point is he exaggerated. The good Doberman attracts attention over-all and in the discerning, grow in attraction. If any one point catches and holds the eye, it is probably overdone.
Gruenig says two things which would be well for all to remember; “No Doberman can possess “Adel” if its physical structure departs from utilitarian.”; and “Endow your litters with the priceless gifts of beauty and utility by a scientific selection of your breeding mate.”
If our best specimens today seem to be almost ideal, then it is up to the breeders to hold the ground gained and look forward to the wonders of the next thirty-five years.
Bibligraphy:
Philpp Gruenig (1947)
Wm.Sidney Schmidt (1935)\
Wm. Sidney Schmidt (1940)
The Complete Dog Book (AKC) (1972)
Ruth McCourt (1974)

​Children should always enjoy a higher social status in the family than the Doberman, but they may be too small and too young to be taken seriously as the dominant (or Top Dog) by the Doberman puppy or adult. Even a child who's taller than the family Doberman is not as well armed - or he or she had better not be.
The Doberman has much bigger teeth! Your child is relatively defenseless against the Doberman's weight, height and their teeth.
In a wolf pack, the young pups are outside the hierarchy. They certainly do not dominate any of the adults, but the adults defer to them and put up with all sorts of misbehavior because they are puppies.
An Alpha male wolf will carry food to his puppies and encourage them to take it from his mouth.
An Alpha female allows her puppies to climb all over her, to bite her tail and ears, to growl and snarl and act like puppies.
The Alphas protect the puppies from the youngest of their older siblings, the yearlings. Thus the subordinates learn to be similarly tolerant of the pups. This tolerance ceases abruptly when the pups hit adolescence, at around 6 months. From then on, it is up to each pup to find its place in the hierarchy, starting at the bottom. This is not a happy time in the life of a young wolf and most of them die, of starvation if not from dominant- inflicted wounds. So how do you apply this to your own families?
(Clue: Death is not an option.).
Do not expect a young child to dominate a Doberman or any dog, even a dog younger than the child.
Don't give the kid responsibility for your Doberman's behavior. Your child can learn to train the family Doberman, but an Alpha human must be present at all times, especially when both the dog and the child are young.
Food bowl train both the children and the dog, this is very important.
Children must leave the dog alone at mealtime unless Mom or Dad is right there. Do not tease a Doberman by attempting to control his food once it's been given to them.
If the dog is absolutely, positively steady on its Stay, the child can put down the food dish. Then step away when Mom or Dad says, before the dog is released. This tells the dog that the child has high status, but don't expect the Doberman to accept this. Stand by to assert your Alpha status and protect your child.
With adolescent humans, it's a judgment call (what isn't?) Some teenagers are really good with dogs and learn easily to train them. Others lose interest and wonder why the dog doesn't "listen" to them. The same teenager may be responsible sometimes and on another planet at other times. That's normal, human adolescent behavior. It is also normal for some adults, as well. Much training fails due to the OWNER's lack of patience. So nobody knows what to expect, including the dog. As a result the pooch learns to ignore or distrust the teenager. None of these outcomes is the fault of the dog. The Doberman is ultimately the responsibility of the adult humans of the family.
If you have a puppy, watch the relationships with the kids when the dog hits adolescence.
If your child has a good, buddy-type relationship with the Doberman, it's reasonable to hope it'll continue, but keep a parental eye on the situation.
If the dog starts pushing the limits (see Alpha Boot Camp Article), step in like an Alpha wolf with a yearling. You set the rules, and your adolescent dog is not allowed to come in as the Heavy with your kids. Period. NEVER, NEVER, NEVER allow a Doberman or any other dog and a young child (newborn through preschooler) to be together without an responsible person's hand within 6 inches.
Babies and puppies routinely hurt each other badly, for neither is old enough to know how not to.
The outcome of these episodes is not pleasant for anyone. The youngster learns to fear dogs, and the puppy learns to hate kids.
Keep your adult hands between your dog of any age and your baby.
Teach your baby to pat-pat the dog nicely and gently with an open hand, on its side or back.
Don't allow the child to touch the Doberman on the head or tail. Ears and tails are too easy to grab and pull; eyes can be poked with inquiring fingers. Keep the child's hands away from the underside of a male dog, for there are things to grab there, too. Praise your kid for doing it right. "You're a good dog petter!" may be more effective than "No, no!"
Teach your Doberman to lick the kids' hands but never to use teeth or claws. Be careful about faces. Dogs probably should not lick babies' faces, though they often want to very much for they are loaded with yummies after a meal. Be guided by your child's reaction. If the baby does not like having her/his face licked, don't let the dog do it, but if the kid loves it, OK.
Watch for teeth, if the yummies are dried on a bit. Pulling off hard, sticky yummies often requires teeth, from the Dobermans point of view. Mom or dad's hands must be right there.
Don't assume that anybody is going to remember these lessons for more than
a few seconds. BE THERE to protect your child and your Doberman puppy.

​1. Punish him for behaving like a dog. Your Doberman is a creature of opportunity, and when you give him opportunities to "misbehave" by leaving tantalizing items within his reach, he'll take advantage. Translation: don't leave food or scraps where he can smell or see them.
Don't leave him in the bedroom alone with your slippers or socks. Insure the only opportunities you provide your Doberman are ones he can succeed at.
2. Tell her "no" over and over. If your Doberman is doing something she shouldn't be doing, telling her "no" will probably cause her to stop the behavior temporarily. But saying no to a Doberman without offering an alternative turns your "no" into merely an interruption, not a request or demand.
Unless you show your Doberman what you want her to do instead of what she's doing, chances are she'll be right back doing it sooner or later.
3. Give her a variety of verbal commands for a single behavior. Many pet guardians assume their Doberman knows English, and therefore knows that "drop it" and "leave it" mean the same thing, or that "get it" and "bring it to me" are the same.
Train your Doberman to respond to simple, preferably single-word commands (sit, stay, come, down, pee, poop, etc.) and then use those words, and only those words, to communicate. Otherwise, you'll create stress in your Doberman because she knows you want her to do something, but she doesn't know what based on the words you're using.
4. Tell him "it's okay." Many Doberman guardians tend to say this phrase to their pet when something decidedly not okay is about to happen. For example, you're driving your dog to the groomer, which is a place he's not fond of. You've driven him there often enough that as always, he starts to whine when the grooming shop comes into view.
And as always, you say, "it's okay" in an effort to comfort him. The second you utter those words he knows without a doubt where he's going, and his stress level shoots through the roof.
"It's okay" becomes a verbal cue to panic. Instead, help your dog learn to relax and cope with anxiety-producing situations.
5. Pull his leash. A dog that has been properly trained to walk on a leash doesn't typically do a lot of pulling, so if you feel the need to constantly yank the leash to redirect him, it's probably time to refresh your pet's leash manners.
It's also important to anticipate that your Doberman will naturally stop and sniff as often as possible, and pull in the direction of someone or something interesting. Be kind and understanding – allow your furry friend a reasonable amount of time to smell-inspect his outdoor territory and pick up his pee-mail without yanking him toward your destination.
6.Hold him while you hug or kiss him. Canines really don't get these human expressions of affection and can be confused by them – especially when the hugger or kisser is a relative stranger. Also, since Dobermans are typically being held (restrained) during the bear hug or smooch-fest, it increases their stress level.
Imagine how you would feel if someone large and in charge grabbed hold of you and wouldn't let go. It's not a good feeling and does nothing to generate trust, right?
Unless your Doberman is remaining contentedly still on his own while being hugged or kissed, it's best to stick to stroking and petting, which most dogs can't get enough of.
7. Stare at her. Most people are uncomfortable being stared at by other people, so it's easy to imagine how unsettling it might be for your Doberman. The canine species views staring as a confrontational sort of a "Let's get ready to rumble" signal, which naturally triggers a stress response. There's no need to stare at your Doberman unless you're returning her gaze.
8. Point or shake your finger at her. The finger pointing/shaking thing is a universal stress inducer for dogs (and many humans). That's probably because it's usually done while you're standing over your pooch in a menacing posture, or while you're speaking in a tone of voice that signals your displeasure.
Many a guilty dog look is the result of the finger-pointing thing, but your pet isn't so much feeling guilty as uncomfortable, wary, confused, and yes… stressed.
9. Tell him to "get down" when he jumps up. If like most people you use the verbal cue "down" to ask your Doberman to go from a sit to a lie-down, it's not going to work in situations where he's jumping up on you or someone else (or a piece of furniture). Train him to stop jumping with the verbal command "off" or "paws on floor" instead. You'll save your Doberman the confusion and stress that comes from trying to understand your command, and you'll potentially save yourself or a guest from a friendly mauling.
10. Wake her up. Unless there's a pressing reason to awaken your four-legged family member from a nice snooze, try to avoid it. Being shaken or shouted awake is stressful for all of us.

​vet360

​By Dr. Karen Shaw Becker
The warm summer months are upon us, and I know many of you have lots of outdoor activities planned that include four-legged family members. So this is a good time for a reminder to avoid foxtails when you’re out and about with your dog.
If you’ve never heard of them, foxtails are treacherous little plant awns that grow from the ear or flower of many types of grasses. They have hairy-looking little appendages that have spikes and sharp edges designed to attach securely to whatever or whoever happens by so they can spread their seeds to surrounding areas.
Foxtails grow all over California, have been reported in almost every state west of the Mississippi and are spreading to the east coast of the U.S. as well. There are several varieties, both native and non-native, but only some have harmful spurs. One dangerous variety is foxtail barley, which is found across the U.S. except in the south Atlantic and Gulf Coast states, and also grows throughout Canada and in parts of Mexico. Other harmful varieties include the giant foxtail, cheatgrass and ripgut brome.
In recent years, Midwestern states have seen a sharp increase in foxtail-related infections in dogs, especially sporting and hunting dogswho run through thick brush where they can inhale or swallow foxtails. Bottom line: if you live where foxtails grow, you and your dog can encounter them in parks, open fields, on city sidewalks and even in your own backyard.
Why Foxtails Are so DangerousIn late spring and early summer, foxtail plant heads turn brown and dry, and scatter across the landscape. The tiny spikes on the plant heads allow them to burrow into soil, and wildlife also helps spread them around.
Virtually any exposure your dog has to grass awns is potentially hazardous. The foxtails inevitably make their way into the noses, eyes, ears, mouths and just about every other opening of dogs' bodies, including the vulva and penis. They can get deep into your dog's nostril or ear canal or under the skin in no time, and often too fast for you to even notice them.
These deadly little plant heads can burrow into your dog's fur and pierce the skin, often between the toes. They can end up virtually anywhere in your pet's body, and symptoms depend on where the foxtail is located. For example, if your dog is shaking her head, there could be a foxtail in an ear canal. If she's suddenly sneezing uncontrollably, she could have one in her nose. Foxtails in the lungs can cause coughing and difficulty breathing.
A dog's body isn't capable of processing foxtails and can neither degrade nor decompose them. To make matters worse, foxtails carry bacteria and can only move in one direction (forward). Unless they’re found early, they can continue to travel throughout a dog's body, creating abscesses, damaging tissue and causing grass awn disease.
A grass awn infection can be very difficult to diagnose, in part because the infection occurs behind the migrating foxtail. In addition, foxtails are hard to see using traditional imaging techniques, because they are small, covered with infection and scar tissue, and are invisible on x-rays.
As you can probably imagine, once a foxtail is roaming around inside your dog's body, it can be incredibly difficult to find. It's not uncommon for veterinarians to perform multiple surgeries before a foxtail is finally located and removed.
Signs of a Foxtail Invasion and When It’s Safe to Remove ThemSigns that your dog may have encountered foxtails is sneezing if the invader got into his nose, pawing at the nose, and nasal drainage or infection. Foxtails that imbed in the skin typically cause inflammation, redness, irritation and oozing sores.
Other signs can include draining tracts (openings in the skin from which discharge drains), squinting, head shaking, excessive licking (especially the paws), scratching, chewing, lethargy, depression and loss of appetite. If a foxtail travels to the abdominal cavity, there can be fever and abdominal pain. Foxtails lodged in the vagina or urethra can cause pain and difficulty urinating.
If you see foxtails in your dog’s coat or anywhere on the outside of her body, including between her toes, remove them immediately either by hand or with a brush.
However, if you suspect or know there’s a plant awn in your dog’s nose or another body opening, or if you see an oozing sore or drainage tract, it’s best to take your dog to a veterinarian for removal. As I explained earlier, foxtails and other types of plant awns have spikes or hooks that dig into whatever surface they attach to, including flesh and tissue. Plant awns that are embedded in tissue are very tricky to remove because they can break apart, leaving a portion of the awn behind.
Not only does the remaining piece of the foxtail continue to cause inflammation and infection at the entry site, but it typically moves forward and deeper into the skin. It can potentially migrate throughout the body, ending up almost anywhere, including the lungs, abdominal organs, spinal cord and even the brain.
Protecting Your Pet From Foxtails and Grass Awn DiseaseOne of the biggest challenges in keeping your dog safe from foxtails can be learning how to identify them. They are usually a golden-brown color, but depending on the variety they can be green, white, yellow or dark brown, and can vary in size from about a half-inch to 3 inches in length, and one-eighth to a half inch in diameter.
To familiarize yourself with foxtails and other potentially dangerous plants where you live or visit with your dog, you can search the database at Center for Invasive Species and Ecosystem Health to see images of plants that grow in your area.
Obviously, avoiding foxtail exposure altogether should be the goal, but that's not always possible. If your dog does encounter foxtails, it's important to carefully comb through his coat, and also check his ears, mouth and between his toes a few times each day to remove any that you find before they have an opportunity to wreak havoc on your pet's health.
If your dog has a long coat and spends a lot of time outdoors, consider trimming (not shaving) his coat during the warmer months, and don’t forget the hair between his toes and pads. You might also want to check into these safety devices other dog owners have created to keep their canine companions free of foxtails:

• OutFox Field Guard
• Foxtailfree Hoodies

Doberman health is a controversial topic in the doberman community worldwide. Despite modern diagnostic tools (DNA and medical tests) the longevity of the breed continues to decline due to Doberman genetic diseases. There are more and more Dobermans dying at a younger age.
Ability to sell puppies worldwide through social media had dramatically changed mentality of many breeders.
It seems that more breeders produce puppies purely for profit to supply the demand of online shoppers.
And why not? Be honest with yourself: when you see a cute puppy photo online – you are already sold.
And majority of puppy buyers won’t even look beyond that. So, why not sell more of those cute puppies if the demand is already high?
Some doberman genetic diseases are more common in certain types than others (read working vs show dobermans about different types of dobermans). And there are common diseases that are prevailing in the Doberman population worldwide. Breeders from different countries focus on different sets of Doberman genetic diseases. For American Doberman Pinscher the list is most likely to start with wobbler’s syndrome and von Willebrand’s disease. Western European Doberman (working line) breeders focus on thyroid. Eastern European Doberman breeders tend to disclose a variety of eye diseases.
Majority of breeders avoid mentioning the most fatal doberman genetic diseases. Perhaps, they don’t want to scare away potential puppy buyers.
Below is a comprehensive list of known Doberman genetic diseases in ascending order (from the least severe to the most fatal).
1. Genetic eye diseases. Eye diseases are more common in Eastern European Dobermans than American Doberman Pinschers (read american vs european doberman type). Dogs with genetic eye disorders are easily identified during ocular exam by an ophthalmologist.
PHTVL/PHPV (Persistent hyperplastic tunica vasculosa lentis/persistent hyperplastic primary vitreous) are rare disorders. The blood vessels on the back of the eye are not fully developed or deformed in fetus. This can cause small pigmentation (dots) on the back of the lens. In more severe cases – bleeding in the eye, cataract, blindness.
PRA (Progressive Retinal Atrophy) is an inherited disease of the retina, in which the rod cells in the retina are programmed to die.
Cataract – the lens of the eye becomes cloudy and eventually all functional vision is lost.
Hypoplasia/Micropapilla – optic nerve disease.
In years, that I’m observing the European Doberman breed, I came across only a few cases of serious eye issues in European Dobermans due to inherited eye diseases. Eye diseases are not fatal, but expensive to care for.

2. vWD (von Willebrand’s disease). It’s an inherited bleeding disorder caused by lack of certain protein (von Willebrand factor protein) that is responsible for blood clotting. The vWD disease is easily identified by the DNA test, performed once in a lifetime. The disease appears only if a dog has two copies of the gene. It’s a well known disease and easily controlled with selective breeding.
What you need to know about von Willebrand’s disease is that the entire Doberman population is divided into three categories:
– vWD-clear – don’t have the gene, don’t have the disease,
– vWD-carrier – have only one copy of the gene, don’t have the disease, and
– vWD-affected – have two copies of the gene and are affected by bleeding disorder.
Only vWD-affected dogs have bleeding disorder. Nearly half of the modern population of European Dobermans are vWD-carriers (have the gene, but not the disease). It is common to breed vWD-clear to vWD-carrier. Breeding carrier to carrier will produce partially affected litter (some puppies will be affected). vWD-affected dogs should not be bred to other affected or carriers.
In general, Dobermans develop only a mild form of this disease. So, even affected dogs can live long life with proper management of the disease. vWD-affected Dobermans are more common in Western European (working) lines, and American Doberman Pinschers. I have not come across a vWD-affected Eastern European dobermans.
If you wonder why not eliminate even vWD-carriers – the answer is: genetic diversity. Each gene is responsible for many traits than just one known disease. Eliminating vWD-carriers will wipe out a large genetic pool, that the breed so desperately needs. And there are breeders that are willing to breed vWD-affected dogs in order to diversify the population.

3. HD – Hip dysplasia (and elbow dysplasia – ED). In other words it’s a badly formed hip that restricts movements. The disease progresses as the dog ages. Hip and elbow dysplasia are identified with X-Rays when a dog is about 2 years old (when the bones are fully formed).
Usually, the hips are rated as Excellent (HD-A), good (HD-B), fair (HD-C), and downhill from there. Ideally, you want a dog with HD-A or HD-B rating.
Hip dysplasia was a big problem in the breed about 20-30 years ago. To the point that it was made mandatory for all dogs to send x-ray results to the main registry in Germany. Dogs with hip dysplasia were banned from breeding. This is still mandatory for German Shepherds since it’s an acute issue for that breed.
Hip issues still occur in Dobermans. So, when buying a puppy, just make sure that both parents were old enough when X-Rays were taken. Demand to see veterinary certificates. Dogs with hip dysplasia should not be bred.

4. Thyroid (Hypothyroidism). It’s a thyroid hormone insufficiency. Dysfunction of thyroid gland when it’s not producing enough hormone to maintain dog’s metabolism. Diagnosed by blood test analysis.
I didn’t come across thyroid issues in Eastern European Doberman, but it is more common in Western European Doberman (again referring to working vs show dobermans) and American Doberman Pinscher (read american vs european doberman type). For breeding purposes in Eastern European dobermans the test is performed once in a lifetime, but it is advised to repeat the test as the dog gets older. In Western European lines and American Doberman Pinscher – thyroid is tested more often (annually?).
Hypothyroidism is easily (and inexpensively) controlled with daily medications. And just like with von Willebrand’s disease – there are some breeders that are willing to breed dogs with thyroid insufficiency in order to diversify the gene pool. If left untreated – hypothyroidism can lead to serious autoimmune issues.

5. DM (degenerative myelopathy), CVI (cervical vertebral instability – aka Wobbler’s syndrome). DM and CVI are genetic spinal diseases. Degenerative myelopathy in dobermans usually affects rear limbs. Wobbler’s syndrome is specific to cervical vertebrae – a spinal cord compression that can lead to neck pain and paralysis. There is a DNA test for DM, performed once in a lifetime. I think CVI (Wobbler’s) is identified only after a dog shows signs of the disease.
It’s not a very common disease in Eastern European lines, but it happens occasionally. I more often see DM/Wobbler’s discussions about American Doberman Pinschers.

6. Cancer. Cancer in Dobermans is rapidly spreading, taking the second place as a cause of death in Dobermans worldwide. It is a silent killer that is difficult to spot until it is too late. There are no genetic tests allowing to screen Dobermans for genetic cancer predisposition.
As you probably know – some forms of cancer are environmental (acquired). Like lung cancer in people who smoke, or skin cancer in people who exposed to sun. In dogs, environmental cancer largely points out to commercially produced dog food (kibble). For that reason, there are many veterinarians advocating for home-made or raw diets for all dogs (not only Dobermans). Read about better dog food options.
Inherited cancer or cancer predisposition is clearly traceable from generation to generation in some bloodlines and can be tied to certain popular dogs in pedigrees. Unfortunately, cancer is not the problem number one for the Doberman breed and breeders often just ignore it when selecting mating partners.

7. DCM (dilated cardiomyopathy). This is a complex genetic disorder and is the leading cause of death of the Doberman breed worldwide. Doberman DCM is a genetic disease of a heart muscle which becomes progressively weak and eventually leads to heart failure. Dogs literally drop dead. DCM is the main reason for decreased longevity in the breed.
It is suspected that about 70% of Dobermans worldwide are affected by this disease (as of 2017). At the rate the disease is spreading, by 2040 , 100% of the Doberman breed will be affected. In some dogs the disease occurs at a later age (around 9 years old or older), but there are more and more dogs that die from DCM at a younger age. Many popular studs (that already produced hundreds of offsprings) get diagnosed at the age of 4 yo.
In a nutshell – the disease can only be reliably identified with annual heart tests – 24 Holter monitor and Echo-Doppler test. DNA test is inconclusive and as of 2018 still means nothing and are not reliable for breeding. Actively bred dogs must be tested with Holter and Echo-Doppler annually and within a year prior to mating.
So, if you see that parents of the litter are “Cardio free”, “heart tested”, “DCM DNA clear” – this means nothing. DEMAND to see authentic certificates (signed by a veterinarian cardiologist) for 24 Holter monitor AND Echo-Doppler (both, not just one). If the test is older than a year, if the breeder refuses to show you the certificates, if the breeder relies on the DNA test only – DO NOT BUY FROM SUCH BREEDER. You are more likely to end up with a puppy that will drop dead in a couple of years. Also, my advice – don’t buy puppies from very young parents. Genetic diseases tend to manifest themselves in mature dogs.
DCM is an acute issue for the breed and a complex topic that I’d like to discuss in a separate article in more details (the article is coming soon).
There are several other genetic diseases that appear in the breed, but they are rare and in most cases are the result of certain gene combination from both parents. Unfortunately, there are no screening for genetic compatibility in dogs to eliminate mating of dogs that can produce offsprings with these diseases:
– Autoimmune disorder is when dog’s immune system attacks its own cells. It is suspected that vaccination is the main trigger of autoimmune disorder, but it is unclear if some dogs are genetically predisposed to it.
– Kidney dysplasia is when kidneys don’t mature and at some point can no longer extract toxins from the body.
– Entropion – is an inverted eye lid.
– Epilepsy is a neurological disorder and causes abnormal brain cell activity.
Obviously, dogs that developed these diseases should not be bred. And parents, who produced such an offspring should not be bred together again (but can be bred to other dogs).
– Color dilute alopecia and albinism are specific to American Doberman Pinschers only. This is due to unregulated breeding practices in the US that allowed breeders to create variety of colors in Dobermans. It is in high demand among uneducated puppy buyers, who don’t know what health issues are behind multi-colored Doberman Pinschers. There are only two acceptable colors of Doberman in Europe – black and brown. In the US – there are also blue and fawn. Color dilute is genetic hair loss and skin issue that causes dog to suffer from severely dry skin, hair loss and bold patches. Color dilute is an essential disorder of every blue and fawn doberman. Albinism (white doberman) was also produced in the US and turned out to be an incredibly sickly type. Luckily, they now ban albino dobermans (and those, carrying the gene) from breeding.
Breeders will always breed. For decades they were unable to resolve minor (like eye disorders) or life-threatening health issues (DCM being the major one) in the breed. Unregulated breeding practices led to creation of more severe doberman genetic diseases. Doberman organizations worldwide are ignoring health situation in the breed, focusing on beauty contests and easy money. Doberman clubs in some countries don’t even regulate breeding practices, which allow breeders to put any two dogs together and profit from the result. While we – buyers and breed fanciers – have to watch our dogs suffer and die, spending thousands of dollars on vet bills. And until we – buyers and breed fanciers – are willing to blindly pay for a cute puppy – this will not change.
When looking for a puppy – make sure both parents are tested for all known genetic diseases. As you can see – doberman genetic diseases list is long. Don’t trust what’s written on the websites, social media posts or words of the breeder. Demand to see proper and all test certificates. If a breeder doesn’t show all or some of the health certificates – this should be alarming. If you leave health concern to chance – chances are high you will have to pay for it later.

​Thank you: http://dobermanblog.com/doberman-genetic-diseases/

What is Cocci? 
​COCCIDIA are small protozoans (one-celled organisms) that multiply in the intestinal tracts of dogs and cats. They are most common in puppies and kittens less than six months of age or adult animals that are stressed or have a suppressed immune system.

​Another reason your family should own a Unique Doberman..
​"Earlier studies have shown that growing up on a farm reduces a child's risk of asthma to about half. We wanted to see if this relationship also was true also for children growing up with dogs in their homes. Our results confirmed the farming effect, and we also saw that children who grew up with dogs had about 15 percent less asthma than children without dogs. Because we had access to such a large and detailed data set, we could account for confounding factors such as asthma in parents, area of residence and socioeconomic status" says Tove Fall, Assistant Professor in Epidemiology at the Department of Medical Sciences and the Science for Life Laboratory, Uppsala University, who coordinated the study together with researchers from the Karolinska Institutet in Stockholm, Sweden.

"These kind of epidemiological studies look for associations in large populations but do not provide answers on whether and how animals could protect children from developing asthma. We know that children with established allergy to cats or dogs should avoid them, but our results also indicate that children who grow up with dogs have reduced risks of asthma later in life. Thanks to the population-based design, our results are generalizable to the Swedish population, and probably also to other European populations with similar culture regarding pet ownership and farming" says Catarina Almqvist Malmros, senior author on the study, Paediatrician at Astrid Lindgren Children's Hospital and Professor in Clinical epidemiology at Dept of Medical Epidemiology and Biostatistics at Karolinska Institutet, Stockholm.
A total of more than one million children were included in the researchers' study linking together nine different national data sources, including two dog ownership registers not previously used for medical research. The results are being published in JAMA Pediatrics. The goal was to determine whether children exposed to animals early in life are at different risk of asthma.
Story Source:
Materials provided by Uppsala Universitet. Note: Content may be edited for style and length.

Journal Reference:

1. Tove Fall, Cecilia Lundholm, Anne K Örtqvist, Katja Fall, Fang Fang, Åke Hedhammar, Olle Kämpe, Erik Ingelsson, Catarina Almqvist. Early Exposure to Dogs and Farm Animals and the Risk of Childhood Asthma. JAMA Pediatrics, 2015; 169 (11): e153219 DOI: 10.1001/jamapediatrics.2015.3219

Urinary Tract Treatment and Prevention:

Cranberry Extract is high in Vitamin C and prevents bacteria from adhering to the bladder wall.  

1) Cranberry Extract—prevents adhesion of bacteria to mucosa, high in vitamin C, cooling properties

3000 mg of Cranberrier = 24 oz of juice  

Dosage:
1/8-1/4 capsule TID cats & small dogs

½ capsule TID large dogs

1 capsule TID giant dogs

NO SIDE EFFECTS 

2) Couchgrass (Crab Grass)—contains mannitol & mucilages, good for inflammation, mild antibacterial effect

3)   Garlic—antibiotic, good for E. coli, Klebsiella, Proteus, Staph

  Average clove of garlic has 100,000 Units of Penicillin

  VERY HIGH doses can cause Heinz body anemia in cats

  Kiolic—capsule/liquid

  2-4 drops S-BID cats & small dogs

  4-10 drops S-BID medium dogs

  Garlitrin  1 tablet SID large dogs

4) Goldenseal—antimicrobial, stimulates immune system be enhancing macrophage activity

Caution is indicated in animals with low blood pressure, low blood sugar and pregnancy

Do NOT use for prolonged periods of time.

5) Horsetail—strong diuretic,  soothing, anti-inflammatory, lithotriptic (dissolves stones)

Good for dogs with IVD and urine retention 

6) Marshmallow Root—soothing and healing to inflamed mm., enhances WBCS, diuretic

7) Uva Ursi—antiseptic, diuretic, strengthens and tones

Do not use with concurrent GI problems or pregnancy,

long term use lowers K (potassium)

8) Vitamin C—antioxidant, enhances immunity, increases interferon, increases thymic hormones

During stress, the body secretes more vitamin C and makes more susceptible to infection

DOSAGE FOR ACUTE SYMPTOMS —Give every 2 hours to bowel tolerance for 24-48 hours

Maintenance Doses

250-500mg BID small 

500-750 BID medium

750-1000 BID large 

1000-2000 BID giant

Water-soluble-->excess is excreted

ANIMALS’ APAWTHECARY—Standard dosing … 

12 drops per 20 pounds—Glycerin-Based Formulations

Cigarette smokes contains cadmium--> promotes urinary stone formation

Bladder Stones

1) Vitamin B6—lowers production & excretion of oxalates:

2-10 mg/day small, 10-20 mg/day medium, 30 mg/day large, 40 mg/day giant

2)  Magnesium—low levels increase calcium oxalate stone formation (phenonomena seen w/Struvite diets)

  Lose Mg in stress situations, sulfate form can cause loose stool

  50 mg SID small, 100 mg SID, medium, 300 mg SID large, 400 mg SID giant

3) Glucosamine—inhibitors of growth & aggregation of Ca+ oxalate crystals, 

250-1000mg BID, NO side effects

4) Corn Silk—anti-inflammatory, diuretic properties, removes gravel from urinary tract

Infusion for large (1-2 oz) and giant (3-4 oz) dogs QID initially then BID

NO known side effects, prolonged use can irritate bladder

5) Gravel Root—powerful solvent, can be used alone or in combination, NO known side effects

Decoction-->3 ml TID small, 5-10 ml TID medium, 1-2 oz TID large, 3-4 oz giant

6) Wild Carrot—highly valuable for gravel, stricture or any obstruction in urinary tract, “ace in the hole”

No side effects, can be given to rabbits too

Infusion-->3-5 ml B-TID small, 5-10 ml medium, 15-20 ml large, 1 oz giant
​

The most common methods of Natural Wart Removal include:

• At-home application of salicylic acid – most the wart removers sold over the counter use salicylic acid to burn the wart off.
• Chryotherapy – this involves a professional Veterinarian freezing the wart off, usually with liquid nitrogen.
• Cantharadin – this is the juice of a blister beetle that is painted on by your Veterinarian and left to form a blister over 24 hours. Later the dead skin of the wart is later removed by the vet.

 Many warts don't respond to any of the OTC wart removal products at all. But before you give up, consider instead trying one of the old-fashioned home remedies for wart removal that so many dog owners swear by. Like all wart removers, you may have to try a couple before you find the perfect remedy that works for each wart.

Home remedies for warts

• Cut a potato in half and rub the wart firmly with the potato half, making sure that the skin becomes saturated with raw potato juice. Repeat morning and night for two weeks to start seeing results.
• Soak a cotton wool ball in apple cider vinegar and apply directly to the wart. Use a bandaid to fix the cotton ball to the wart. Remove after three to four hours. Repeat every day for three days to start seeing results.
• Place a small square of duct tape over the wart and leave in place, removing only when you want to replace the tape. Continue for two weeks to start seeing results.
• Rub the wart with the peel of an orange. The wart will turn orange and then darken and finally drop off. Continue for two weeks to start seeing results.
• Paint the wart with a layer of clear nail polish. Repeat every second day. Continue for two week to start seeing a result.
• Soak a cotton ball in fresh aloe vera and apply directly to the wart. Repeat each day for two weeks to begin seeing a result.
• Rub a raw garlic over the wart every day for two weeks to begin seeing a result.
• For plantar warts, apply the inside of a banana peel to the wart. The peel must remain in contact with the wart at all times. Continue for 3 – 4 days to see a result.
• Apply the milk of a dandelion directly to the wart. Repeat every day for two weeks to begin seeing a result.
• Rub castor oil onto the wart twice a day for two weeks to begin seeing a result.
• Surprisingly, the duct tape cure remedy is the only remedy to have been medically researched and proven to work.
• The most popular – and anecdotally successful – home remedy is the apple cider vinegar remedy, which apparently work to redress the skin’s pH balance and thus eliminate the wart.

Vitamin cures It’s not just foods (and duct tape) that work a miracle wart cure. Some vitamins reportedly work miracles too:

• Before going to bed, prick open a vitamin E capsule and carefully cover the wart with the oil. Cover the treated area with a band-aid, sock or glove and leave the oil on overnight. Repeat for two weeks to start seeing results.
• Break a vitamin C tablet down to a similar size as the wart you are treating. Using a bandaid to keep it in place, tape the vitamin C tablet directly onto the wart. Change the bandaid and vitamin C tablet each day and repeat for two weeks to start seeing results.

Additionally, when you have warts you should eat a diet rich in vitamin A - the orange foods such as pumpkin, carrots, papaya, mangos and apricots – and garlic to boost your immune system.
​

EPA Announces Voluntary Cancellation of Toxic Chemical in Flea Collars

The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) announced Friday that it has reached agreement with two major pet product companies to cancel flea and tick pet collars containing the insecticide propoxur. The agreement, with a long phase-out period, was reached between the agency and the two companies as a result of EPA’s risk assessment in fall 2013, which found unacceptable risks to children from exposure to pet collars containing propoxur.

The agency found that children were exposed to propoxur pet collars on the first day following application. Flea and tick collars work by leaving a pesticide residue on dogs’ and cats’ fur, which can be transferred to people by hugging, petting, or coming into contact with the pets. The major source of exposure to these chemicals is from absorption through the skin after directly touching the treated pet. Small children may ingest pesticide residues when they touch a treated cat or dog and subsequently put their hands in their mouth.

Under the cancellation agreement, Sergeant’s Pet Care Products, Inc. and Wellmark International will have until April 1, 2015 to continue producing the pet products containing propoxur under the trade names Bansect, Sentry, Zodiac and Biospot, and can continue to distribute them until April 1, 2016. EPA states that it will continue to watch for incidents from the use of these collars and is prepared to take further action if necessary.

Though this is a remarkable step towards removing a harmful product from the market, the extended phase-out period continues to allow children to be exposed. In fact, EPA has an astounding history of negotiated multi-year phase-outs with industry. As seen in other EPA decisions, cancellation of a toxic pesticide does not mean that the chemical would be removed from the market, but it is allowed to linger on the market for years continuing to threaten human health and contaminate the environment.

Propoxur is a carbamate insecticide first registered in the U.S. in 1963 for the control of household pests. Despite the fact that it was banned in 2007 for indoor uses to which children would be exposed, it remained widely used in flea and tick collars. EPA completed the propoxur pet collar risk assessment in fall 2013 in response to a 2009 Natural Resources Defense Council (NRDC) petition to cancel the uses.

A 2011 study published in the journal NeuroToxicology found a positive link between exposure to the pesticide propoxur and poor motor development in infants. At the age of two, children exposed to propoxur in the womb experience poor development of motor skills, according to a test of mental development. Propoxur can be very dangerous to humans and the environment. Common symptoms of poisoning include malaise, muscle weakness, dizziness, and sweating. Headache, nausea, and diarrhea may also result. EPA considers propoxur a possible human carcinogen, while the state of California classifies it as a known human carcinogen. Propoxur is also highly toxic to beneficial insects such as honey bees as well as crustaceans, fish, and aquatic insects.

Source: EPA Press Release
​

#1 Weed and Feed Products Threaten Human Health, and are Especially Dangerous For Children 
A growing body of scientific evidence continues to confirm the widespread health 
effects of Weed and Feed products. 2,4-D, the pesticide in most Weed and Feed products, 
is a neurotoxicant and contains half the ingredients in Agent Orange. Studies show that 
exposure to 2,4-D is associated with neurological disorders, reproductive problems, 
kidney/liver damage, non-Hodgkin’s lymphoma and other cancers, and disruption of 
the endocrine (hormonal) system.1 Children are especially at risk for increased 
exposure to Weed and Feed since they play on lawns for extended periods of time and 
put their hands and other objects into their mouths.2 In general, children are most 
susceptible than adults to pesticides because they take in more chemicals relative to 
their body weight than adults and they have developing organ systems that are more 
vulnerable and less able to detoxify chemicals.3 Endocrine disruptors are of particular 
concern for children because, depending on timing, minute doses can effect the 
function of cells and tissues and cause problems during critical growth stages. 
Disruption of the endocrine system is associated with a range of developmental 
problems including deficient brain function, learning disabilities, and other problems. 
Exposure to herbicides such as 2,4-D is not limited to the outdoors. Studies have 
shown that lawn chemicals drift and are tracked indoors where they may remain in 
carpets and on surfaces for up to a year when not exposed to direct sunlight.4 A single 
turf application of 2,4-D can remain inside the home at exposure levels ten times 
higher than pre-application exposures.5 In a 2003 study of indoor air toxins, 2,4-D was 
detected in the dust of 63% of sampled houses.6 
 
#2 Weed and Feed Hurts Dogs and Wildlife 
2,4-D has been shown to have negative impacts on a number of animals. Studies have 
found that dogs whose owners use 2,4-D lawn products are twice as likely to develop 
canine malignant lymphoma.7 The latest EPA assessment of 2,4-D acknowledges the 
susceptibility of dogs to poisoning by 2,4-D and other lawn pesticides but does not 
propose any label warnings to users.8 Wildlife is also negatively affected by Weed and 
Feed. Exposure to 2,4-D has shown to reduce hatching success and cause birth defects 
in birds.9 Studies also show 2,4-D products to be toxic to earthworms that are vital to 
healthy soil, and to have negative impacts on beneficial insects, such as honeybees, 
predatory beetles, and ladybugs. 10,11 
 
#3 Weed and Feed Pollutes Drinking Water Sources 
Since Weed and Feed combines a fertilizer and an herbicide, it directs the user to spread 
the herbicide throughout the lawn instead of just where weeds are present. Most users 
are believed to overuse Weed and Feed products, not realizing that it actually contains a 
pesticide or just by thinking that more is better. This is exacerbated by the fact that 
only around half of households actually read and follow the label carefully when 
using pesticides and fertilizers.12 Since 2,4-D is highly mobile in soil13 the overuse of 
Weed and Feed products leads to runoff that contaminates groundwater and 
watersheds. Studies by the U.S. Geological Survey show 2,4-D is the number one 
herbicide most frequently detected in streams and shallow ground water throughout 
the country from home and garden use.14 2,4-D has also been detected in groundwater 
in at least five states and Canada.15 Partially due to the problem of overuse and water 
contamination, the Canadian Medical Association passed a resolution calling for the 
ban of Weed and Feed products.16
 
#4 Local Governments Are Calling For a Ban on Weed and Feed 
As part of EPA’s assessment of 2,4-D for reregistration in March 2005, the public was 
able to submit comments. Over 1000 letters calling for the cancellation of Weed and Feed
products were received by the agency including some from local governments and 
state and local agencies such as Seattle Public Utilities, the California Regional Water 
Quality Board, Clark County(Washington), and King County(Washington).17 

#5 We Don't Need Weed and Feed 
Weed and Feed is not an effective solution to weed maintenance. It can actually damage 
the health of lawns by harming microorganisms, beneficial insects, and earthworms 
that are essential to maintaining healthy soil and therefore, healthy turf. Typically, 
weeds cover a small fraction of lawn area, and any herbicide applied to weed-free 
areas is wasted. Even if a lawn contains as much as 50% weeds, then half of the 
herbicide is unnecessary and contributes to runoff and health risk without providing 
any benefit. There is no need to expose the public to this toxic chemical in the water, 
the air and the soil when safe and effective alternatives exist. Examples of alternatives 
to 2,4-D include corn gluten as a safe pre-emergent general herbicide, vinegar to 
selectively kill certain weeds, weeder machines that simply use hot water or heat, long 
handled mechanical weed pullers, and pulling out weeds by hand. Natural organic 
fertilizers or slow-release fertilizers help to maintain a healthy lawn. ​

​Pesticides and Autism:

Mount Sinai is leading an effort to understand the role of these toxins in a condition that now affects between 400,000 and 600,000 of the 4 million children born in the United States each year.

"A large number of the chemicals in widest use have not undergone even minimal assessment of potential toxicity and this is of great concern," says Dr. Landrigan. "Knowledge of environmental causes of neurodevelopmental disorders is critically important because they are potentially preventable."

CEHC developed the list of ten chemicals found in consumer products that are suspected to contribute to autism and learning disabilities to guide a research strategy to discover potentially preventable environmental causes. The top ten chemicals are:

1. Lead

2. Methylmercury

3. PCBs

4. Organophosphate pesticides

5. Organochlorine pesticides

6. Endocrine disruptors

7. Automotive exhaust

8. Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons

9. Brominated flame retardants

10. Perfluorinated compounds

In addition to the editorial, the other four papers also call for increased research to identify the possible environmental causes of autism in America's children. The first paper, written by a team at the University of Wisconsin -- Milwaukee, found preliminary evidence linking smoking during pregnancy to Asperger's disorder and other forms of high-functioning autism. Two papers, written by researchers at the University of California -- Davis, show that PCBs disrupt early brain development. The final paper, also by a team at UC -- Davis, suggests further exploring the link between pesticide exposure and autism.

​Minnesota becomes the first state to ban the toxic antibacterial pesticide triclosan in consumer personal care and cleaning products statewide. Read the press release, and learn more about triclosan here.

Dog owners need to realize that many of the common chemical herbicides are responsible for a large number of pet poisonings. Herbicides can have both short- and long-term effects. They can cause an array of problems that range from mild vomiting to cancers and death.

The Environmental Association for Great Lakes Education (EAGLE) sites the “Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association” and the “Journal of the National Cancer Institute” in their conclusion that dogs exposed to lawns treated with herbicides can double their chances of developing canine lymphoma. Herbicide use can increase the risk of canine bladder cancer in some breeds by as much as seven times.

When purchasing herbicides, always read the labels so that you understand the dangers associated with the product. The labels include information about the individual chemicals used in the herbicide and safety information that can help protect you and your pet. The labels also specify the amount of time that you need to keep your pet away from plants that have been sprayed. Pay close attention to this information. It is not there for decoration. It can save your dog’s life.

There are several dangerous chemicals found in herbicides. One is arsenic, which causes vomiting, diarrhea, pains in the abdominal area, coma and death.

Paraquat is another herbicide that has proven to lead to death.

Metaldehyde, which is generally found in snail and slug baits, has been associated with abdominal cramps, vomiting, tremors, seizures and death. One of the big problems associated with this herbicide is the fact that metaldehyde tastes good to dogs.

Disulfoton, which is still used to protect roses, is part of a class known as organophosphates. While many organophosphates have been pulled from the market, disulfoton, which is also used in fertilizers that contain bone meal and blood, attracts dogs. Unfortunately, it is still used despite the fact that it can make pets extremely ill and can lead to death.

Roundup, a commonly used herbicide, also presents dangers to your pets. Dogs exposed to the polyethoxylated tallowamine (one of the inert ingredients) in it can experience extreme vomiting and should be seen immediately by a veterinarian. Follow the directions and do not let your dog walk in areas where the herbicide has been sprayed for at least a day.

Most chemical herbicides are the most dangerous when they are wet. The threat becomes less when the herbicide application dries completely. However, dogs that ingest weeds sprayed with herbicides can still become very ill and death can occur.

Don’t assume that your yard will be safe even if you don’t apply herbicides. Your yard can become contaminated with the chemicals from spray that blows in from a neighboring property. If your municipality has an herbicide spray program, your yard can easily become contaminated from an herbicide application.

If you are on good terms with your neighbors, discuss the dangers of herbicide use with them. If they still insist on using the dangerous chemicals, hopefully they will notify you before they apply them so that you can take the proper precautions. If you know spraying is likely to occur, it is important to keep your dog indoors. Do not let toys or food dishes remain outdoors to become contaminated with the herbicide products.

If your neighbor or municipality embarks on a spraying program, ask that they give you 48 hour’s notice before applying herbicides. This will give you ample time to make arrangements to keep your dog from being exposed.

If you rent a property and the landlord cares for the yard, you need to discuss an herbicide application schedule with the person in charge. Again, ask for advance notice so you can be sure your dog is not outdoors when the spraying is done.

If you suspect that your pet has come into contact with freshly sprayed herbicides, call a veterinarian or pet poison control center immediately. Be prepared to provide as much information as possible so that the vets know how to treat the dog. Different poisons require different antidotes.

Try organic herbicides whenever possible. Vinegar is fast becoming one of the most popular organic herbicides. According to the Sustainable Agricultural Systems Laboratory, which is part of the USDA, vinegar has an 80 to 100 percent kill rate in concentrations of 10 to 20 percent. The vinegar you purchase from the grocery store contains only five percent acetic acid and will not work well as an herbicide. Visit your local garden store or check the Internet for vinegar that has higher concentrations of acetic acid.

You might also try using corn gluten meal in place of chemicals. Corn gluten meal (CGM) is a natural substitute for synthetic pre-emergence herbicides. Pre-emergence herbicides attack seeds while they’re still in the ground, before the seedlings emerge from the soil. CGM is a by-product of commercial corn milling that contains the protein fraction of the corn. Its use poses no health risk to people or animals. In fact, because it is 60% protein, corn gluten meal is used as feed for cattle, poultry, fish, and dogs. In addition to the 60% protein, corn gluten meal is 10% nitrogen, by weight.

Corn gluten meal is a relatively new herbicide that was discovered during turf grass research at Iowa State University. The study showed that corn gluten meal prevented grass seeds from sprouting. The meal works to stop the germination of seeds. It does not kill or stunt existing plants.

Corn gluten meal is available in powder or pellet forms. The meal should be applied late in April or early in May and again in mid-August for best results. The corn gluten meal should be applied at a rate of 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet of lawn. Water lightly after application to activate the corn gluten meal.

As more Americans move toward a greener lifestyle, more information is being published on organic herbicides. Fortunately, more commercial sprayers are offering organic treatments of weedy lawns. Don’t be afraid to ask for natural alternatives.

​Cerera was a very large and fast growing puppy! She rapidly grew to the height of 29 inches tall. Luckily we escaped the common problems associated with a fast growing puppy. However you  may not be so lucky!

Panosteitis is sometimes called "growing pains." Panosteitis may occur in more than one bone at a time and often moves around from leg to leg.
The limping usually occurs very suddenly and spontaneously, or without a history of trauma or excessive exercise.
Pano usually presents itself around 5 to 6 months of age and can come and go even moving from leg to leg up until your Doberman puppy is 18 months of age.

Some tips we can share with you if your Doberman puppy limping are:
1. Make sure your puppy receives a thorough lameness examination by a competent Veterinarian to rule out tendon or joint pain from an injury. Although panosteitis is not a serious disease, and is a common cause of lameness, other, more serious bone diseases can cause lameness in young dogs. In order to be sure that a sudden onset of lameness is not caused by one of these more serious bone diseases, radiographs must be taken. If the radiographs show the typical lesions of panosteitis, then you can rest assured that your dog will eventually outgrow the problem.

2. Although there are potential links between diets containing excessive levels of dietary protein and/or calcium, it isn't recommended to feed large breed puppies with an adult dog food that contains lower levels of protein and calcium. The reason for this is that many grocery store brands of adult dog food also have lower calories or energy levels than puppy food. This will actually cause your Doberman puppy to eat a lot more of a low-energy food to meet their growth requirements. Eating more of a low energy diet will result in a higher overall intake of protein and calcium which can disrupt their delicate growth ratio. 
A better option is to feed your Doberman puppy a high quality diet that has been specifically formulated for use in large breed puppies or adolescents, and to restrict the quantity fed to keep the dog at a lean, healthy body weight. Do not allow your puppy to become overweight. 

3. Episodes can last for two to three weeks or can continue for months at a time. The dog may show hesitance to walk, run, jump, or exercise. If the affected bone is squeezed, the dog will exhibit pain as well.
Some dogs run a low-grade fever during episodes of panosteitis. Others have elevated white blood cell counts. The condition typically affects the radius, ulna, humerus, femur, and tibia, but once in a while the condition can affect the foot and pelvic bones as well.

4. Large Dog Breeds at higher risk of Panosteitis:Large fast growing breeds have a higher risk of Panosteitis. Panosteitis is especially common in German shepherds. Other dog breeds where this condition is quite common are the Great Dane, the Doberman pinscher, the Labrador retriever and the Golden retriever.

Signs and Symptoms of Panosteitis in dogs:

The classic signs and symptoms of Panosteitis in Doberman puppies is lameness. Panosteitis can affect different bones at different times, and you might notice how your Doberman puppy seems sore and lame in one hind leg only to have it suddenly switch to the opposite leg seemingly overnight! Such a cycle of lameness can last from 2-3 weeks for each leg, and your Doberman puppy will often experience periods when it has no apparent symptoms at all and happily runs and plays like any other Doberman puppy. 
If your Doberman puppy is suffering from Panosteitis it can develop a fever or experience nausea, become lethargic and even lose its appetite.
Panosteitis is not cured surgically or by prescribing any particular drug.
The treatment of choice for Panosteitis is simply rest and exercise restriction, a Doberman puppy with Panosteitis must be given plenty of rest, you may even need to crate them at times.
If your Doberman puppy is in a lot of pain, your vet can may prescribe a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug to help make them more comfortable.  (NO Rimadyl)
Most Dobermans fully recover from Panosteitis without any permanent side effects.

MSM - directions are on the bottle for the size of the dog. Open the capsule and sprinkle the powder on the food.
Herbsmith Comfort Aches - available in a tablet and a powder.
Yucca Intensive - 10 drops in food. This is bitter, so mix it into the food (shake the bottle well).
Vitamin "E" 1 Capsule daily.
Vitamin "C" 500 mg daily.

I had been telling Bruce how we needed to get some weight off of one of our young females, we switched her to adult food but it wasn't quite soon enough and she has shown a bit of pain in her hind legs. Nothing serious but a wake up call to be on the lookout for Pano!
We have never had a serious case of Pano in our Dobermans and we are not wanting to experience any Doberman puppy with it now!

Remember to keep your young rapidly growing puppies lean and on a well balance diet. Do not feed extra calcium as this may disrupt the delicate balance between calcium and phosphorous a sure fire way to set your Doberman puppy up for a painful bout of Pano!